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#EXCLUSIVE | Prof. Madinga: Why green marketing isn’t closing the deal

Sustainability has become one of the most powerful narratives in modern marketing. In the beauty and personal care industry, “organic”, “natural” and “clean” are no longer niche positioning strategies, they are rapidly becoming mainstream expectations.

For many marketers, millennials represent the ideal target segment for these offerings. They are widely perceived as environmentally conscious, health-oriented and values-driven. As a result, significant investment has gone into developing and promoting green beauty products aimed at this cohort.

But there is a critical question that marketers need to confront: are positive attitudes toward sustainability translating into actual purchasing behaviour?

Our recent study, published in the European Journal of Management Studies, set out to answer this question within the South African context. The findings suggest that while marketers are not entirely wrong in their assumptions about millennials, they may be oversimplifying how this segment makes decisions.

Why we conducted the study

The starting point for this research was a persistent assumption in both industry and academia: that consumers who express concern for the environment will naturally prefer and purchase sustainable products.

While this assumption is appealing, it does not always hold in practice, particularly in emerging markets such as South Africa, where economic realities and structural constraints play a significant role in shaping consumer behaviour.

The purpose of our study was therefore twofold:

  • To identify the key drivers of millennials’ attitudes toward organic personal care products
  • To examine what actually influences their purchase intentions

By doing so, we aimed to provide marketers with evidence-based insights that go beyond surface-level perceptions of the “green consumer”.

The market context: strong growth, but uneven conversion

The global organic personal care market is projected to grow from $18.45 billion in 2023 to $26.20 billion by 2028, reflecting sustained global demand for sustainable products.

South Africa is an important part of this landscape. As the largest cosmetics market in Africa, it presents a significant growth opportunity for both local and international brands.

At the same time, consumer awareness is rising. Millennials, in particular, are increasingly attentive to:

  • Ingredient transparency
  • Environmental impact
  • Ethical sourcing

On the surface, this suggests a market that is primed for green beauty.

However, our findings indicate that awareness does not automatically translate into purchasing behaviour.

What shapes attitudes: the good news for marketers

The first set of findings confirms that South African millennials hold positive attitudes toward organic personal care products.

Three factors were found to significantly influence these attitudes:

Health consciousness

Consumers who are more concerned about their personal wellbeing are more likely to favour organic products. The link between “what I use” and “my health” is becoming increasingly important.

Environmental consciousness

Awareness of environmental issues continues to play a significant role in shaping favourable attitudes toward sustainable products.

Subjective norms

Social influence matters. Consumers are more likely to develop positive attitudes when people important to them: friends, peers or influencers support or endorse organic products.

Quality perceptions

Importantly, even at the attitudinal level, perceptions of product quality influence how consumers evaluate organic offerings.

For marketers, this is a critical insight: attitudes toward green beauty are not driven by sustainability alone, they are multi-dimensional.

What actually drives purchases: where the problem lies

The more important and more challenging insight emerges when we examine purchase intentions.

Our study found that perceived product quality is the strongest predictor of purchase intention, outweighing sustainability-related factors.

This has significant implications.

While sustainability messaging may generate interest and positive sentiment, it is not sufficient to drive conversion. Consumers ultimately make purchase decisions based on whether they believe the product will:

  • Perform effectively
  • Deliver consistent results
  • Justify its price

In other words, green positioning does not replace the need for strong core product performance.

Understanding the barriers to conversion

To address this gap, marketers need to understand the barriers that stand in the way of purchase:

Price sensitivity

Organic products are often positioned at a premium. In a price-conscious market, this limits adoption, even among consumers with positive attitudes.

Limited availability

Distribution remains uneven. If products are not available in mainstream retail environments, purchase likelihood decreases.

Trust and credibility issues

Consumers are increasingly sceptical of vague or unverified “green” claims. Without clear proof, sustainability messaging may be discounted.

Performance uncertainty

Many consumers remain unsure whether organic products can match the effectiveness of conventional alternatives.

These barriers highlight a key point: the decision not to buy is often rational, not contradictory.

What marketers need to do differently

The findings challenge a common industry approach that prioritises sustainability messaging as the primary driver of demand.

Instead, marketers need to rethink how green beauty is positioned.

Lead with performance, not just purpose

Consumers must first be convinced that the product works. Sustainability should enhance the value proposition—not replace it.

Reinforce perceived quality

Invest in demonstrations, user reviews, clinical evidence and before-and-after results to strengthen quality perceptions.

Reduce access barriers

Consider pricing strategies, smaller pack sizes or broader distribution to make products more accessible.

Build trust through transparency

Clear labelling, credible certifications and honest communication are essential in overcoming scepticism.

Translate sustainability into personal value

Rather than focusing solely on environmental impact, connect sustainability to tangible consumer benefits such as skin health and safety.

Rethinking the “green consumer”

One of the biggest misconceptions in marketing is the idea of a uniformly “green” consumer.

Our findings suggest that South African millennials are better understood as value-driven pragmatists.

They care about sustainability but not at any cost.

They are willing to support ethical products but only when those products meet their expectations in terms of:

  • Quality
  • Affordability
  • Convenience

This is not a limitation of the market, it is a reality that marketers must design for.

This article draws from a Master’s research project conducted by Mongezi Lupindo, as well as a co-authored academic publication by Mongezi Lupindo, Dr. Siphiwe Dlamini, and Prof. Nkosivile Madinga.

About Prof. Nkosivile Madinga

Prof. Nkosivile Madinga is a professor of marketing specialising in sustainable consumption.
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